Soundview Landscape Blog

As the summer days begin to distance themselves in our seasonal rear view mirror, we find ourselves with pleasant daytime temperatures, cool evenings, and a generally decent planting season. Mostly fall is known as the optimal time to plant and repair a lawn, but it can also be a perfect time to update a landscape or plant a tree.

You don’t need to limit yourself to tree planting in the fall. Any number of container grown shrubs are available for planting. There are new introductions each year which may provide you with seasonal interest, flashy color, or wildlife attraction. While the Spring and summer inventories may be mostly gone by now, Soundview is sure to replenish stock in order to keep our customers satisfied. For some great selections, see our Fall Color Guide. 

Fall Planting Tips:

1. While the weather can be conducive to fall planting, don’t forget some of the basics.
    
2. Trees generally need to be planted a little higher in the ground that you might think. When machines dig the trees out the dirt rises up a little bit and gives a false sense of ground level. Keep the ball up high enough so that the root flare is at your ground level.
    
3. Include plenty of organic material with your backfill. Whether you use compost or peat moss, add something to the soil which will help with water and nutrient retention. Mix it with the native soil when planting, don’t just replace everything.
    
4. Water, water, water. Just because the temperatures are cooler, doesn’t mean you are off the hook for watering. As the trees prepare for dormancy over the winter, they can’t be stressed out. Keep the soil moist and provide a little bit of mulch to protect your investment. A little bit of effort will go a long way. With evergreens, sometimes the effects of drought or drying can take a long time to become evident. By the time you see an evergreen showing stress, it is often too late to react.
    
5. Wind and winter can hurt plantings. One of the most frequent causes of winter injury to plants, especially broadleaf evergreens, is the wind. Cold dry air will evaporate any moisture and provide certain death for susceptible plants. An easy solution is to provide some level of protection for new plantings. Something like a physical barrier of burlap can help with wind and snow protection, but this is often tedious and can be destroyed by harsh winter weather. Consider using an anti-transpirant, such as Wilt-Pruf or TransFilm for a protective coating on certain plants. While not suitable for all types of plants, always consult the label for proper usage instructions.

Installation & Maintenance 

Installation:

Although the installation of the new plants will take time and energy, it is also an exciting part of the project because you will be able to see the results of all your research and planning. Just like anything else, you will need to be prepared for these steps.

1. Make sure you have all the proper tools and equipment and have lined up deliveries of material if needed. As I mentioned in a previous chapter, you do not have to stay within the same lines as the old landscape bed. You can create new shapes and design it the way you like. Keep in mind that the new landscape beds should be slightly raised and have a nice deep trench around it for better drainage.

2. Incorporate some nutrient rich soil into the entire area.

3. Lay out your plants in the design that you would like and then start digging. When digging holes for shrubs, you’ll want to make sure that the hole is at least two to three times as wide, leaving the bottom of the hole flat and undisturbed.

4. Once you’ve placed your plant in the hole, it should be slightly above grade (1 inch or so). Avoid digging holes that are too deep. This will hinder the plants growth and likely kill them. For plants or shrubs that are in buckets, remove them from the bucket and core the root ball a few times with a knife or shovel on the sides to help the roots branch out. If the plant is balled and burlapped, only remove the twine and burlap that is on the top of ball. There is no need to remove all the burlap because it keeps the root ball intact and will eventually decompose. Place the plant in the hole and backfill using soil and peat moss.

5. You can also add a balanced organic fertilizer like “Dry Roots” to the hole to help the roots become established. Pat in dirt around the root ball (don’t cover root ball with dirt) and then make a water retaining ring around the shrub. Water the shrub deeply and thoroughly. Repeat this procedure for each and every plant to ensure a healthy start!

6. When you are done planting all the shrubs you will need a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plants. It doesn’t matter what kind of mulch you use, as long as it’s made from bark or the hardwood of the tree. You don’t want to use anything that is made from processed wood (such as recycled pallets). The main purposes of mulch are to retain moisture, regulate the temperature of the plant roots and return nutrients into the soil. Of course, it is also aesthetically pleasing – so chose the type and color that you like.

 Maintenance:

Now that you have spent time and money on your new replacement plants, you will definitely want to care for them properly. In the weeks following the installation, adequate watering is of the utmost importance. The new plants will need to be watered much more frequently than the old established plants.

1. As long as the temperature is 85 degrees or less, watering the new plants 2-3 times a week for the first month will be sufficient.

2. After the first month, water 1-2 days a week for the next two months. You also have to water the plants deeply (about five minutes per plant on a slow trickle). If the watering is too shallow, the plant roots will grow close to the surface and dry out quickly. You want the roots to grow deeper in the soil and establish themselves well. If you are lucky enough to have an irrigation system, it will do all the work for you. Soaker hoses are also very useful.

3. After the plants are established, most will need yearly pruning or trimming to stay healthy and strong. All varieties differ on how and when to prune but most flowering shrubs should be pruned right after they are done flowering.

4. Refrain from using high strong fertilizers for about a year after the initial planting. This is because the new roots are delicate and could be easily burned by the too much fertilizer. Just follow the watering regimen to give your new plants the best chance of success in their new home.

5. Enjoy your new plants!

Landscape design can be a daunting process for many people. Because there are so many options, selecting an appropriate mix of replacement plants can be overwhelming. We recommend starting with a little education and some planning.  Even if you have your landscape design created professionally, you will need some basic knowledge about your environment and suitable options. An excellent way to learn about the best plants to use in your new landscape is by visiting a nursery and talking with a knowledgeable member of the staff.  At Soundview Landscape Supply, we spend 6 days a week helping our customers learn more about their options. Another great way to develop your design style is by driving through some local neighborhoods and look for landscapes that you find interesting and attractive. You’ll also want to pay attention to items and ideas that you don’t like in order to speed the process of finalizing your design. The right landscape design for your property is limited only by your imagination. An enduring design will most likely reflect your own personality, style and preferences. 

Understanding that there is no right or wrong design, there are some guidelines that you can follow to help your design flow with the architecture of your house. Homes that are symmetric in character such as Colonials may require a more formal design with shrubs that can be sheared and shaped, such as boxwoods. Homes like cottages will look nice with less formal and more whimsical designs. Also, keep the height of the house in mind – a raised ranch may look funny with tiny plants surrounding it. Another factor of planning the design is spacing the plants properly. Make sure that you know approximately how large the plants will be when mature so that the landscape does not become crowded or block windows or entrances.

When researching plants, remember that here in CT, there are four seasons and you will want the landscaping to be attractive year-round. You’ll want to consider some of our favorite perennials as well as the foliage and bark of other plants that will stay green all year. Creating the shape of the beds is also important in the design. You do not have to stay within the lines of the old landscaping, they can be any shape or size you want, so get creative. Having a nice balance of colors, textures and shapes will give the design yearlong interest.

You can design the most attractive landscape imaginable but it won’t succeed if your environment is not conducive to the plants that you have chosen. For example, a sun-loving juniper will die in shady conditions. On the other side, a plant such as a hydrangea will wilt and burn in strong afternoon sun. This link can help in your search for the right plants. To select plants with the most opportunity for success, you’ll need figure out path of the sun, the effects of shade trees, shadows produced by your house, outbuildings, fences, etc.  All of these elements contribute to the amount of available sunlight in your yard. Therefore, you’ll want to take notes and even sketch these elements on a basic plan that indicates the sunny and shady areas on your property. 

Helpful information:

• Full sun is considered 5-6 hours of direct sunlight.

• Full shade is 5 hours of filtered light

• Partial sun/shade is 2-3 hours of direct sun, then 2-3 hours of filtered sun.

You also have to think about all the critters roaming your yard when you’re not looking (or even when you are), especially deer. Deer are a big problem for many people. This is because they are browsers and will eat just about anything they come across if they are hungry enough. You can try to prevent damage by using plants that they typically don’t eat. Below is a list of plants, trees and shrubs with varying degrees of deer resistance. Keep in mind that although a plant may be considered highly deer resistant can still be damaged depending on deer populations, harshness of winter and alternate food sources.  Read more about landscape plants rated according to their resistance to deer damage here. 

We stock nursery material for just about any landscape challenge. Our nursery professionals are available to help you make the best possible selections for your replacement project.

Many homes have outdated or overgrown foundation plantings. A great way to brighten up and refresh your home is to replace the old, tired plantings with fresh replacement trees, shrubs and perennials.Not only will the outside of the house get a “facelift” but the inside will benefit as well. Clearing plants away from the windows will allow more sunlight through which in turn may help with heating costs. It’s also possible to add value to your home by refreshing the landscaping.

Don’t be afraid to rip out those old shrubs!

As landscapes and properties mature and evolve, it’s rare that landscaping looks good forever. This is because the living conditions have, more than likely, changed over time. So a shrub that was planted 20 years ago in full sun may now be covered in shade. As such plants become a scraggly, woody mess, no amount of pruning can fix it. So why not do that poor plant a favor and rip it out. Of course, this usually creates a domino effect because once you remove one plant, the rest look bad as well. Most likely, it will be necessary to remove all the plants and start with a clean slate. While this may sound like a significant undertaking, your replacement landscape project can be divided into manageable phases that can be accomplished over a period of time that works best for you.

How will you remove all these old shrubs?

The easiest way to remove old shrubs is to hire a contractor. They will have all the machines and tools at their fingertips to get the job done quickly and efficiently. But if you like a challenge, you can do it on your own with a few necessary tools and by taking the necessary precautions. First, use the free “call before you dig” service to ensure you don’t dig near any buried utility lines – http://www.cbyd.com/homeowners_guide.html.  Once you’re clear to move ahead, you’ll need a shovel, hand saw or chainsaw and pick ax handy. If you are really adventurous, you can rent a machine to do the digging for you. Another detail that you need to remember is that you’ll need to dispose of all the shrubs once they’re removed. Some towns have a transfer station (aka, “dump”) to bring brush, but you would need a truck or trailer to do so. If you don’t have a truck or a town dump nearby, look into getting a dumpster delivered to the job. All the shrubs can be thrown into the dumpster. When you are done, just call to have it picked up. Soundview Landscape Supply is certified by the DEEP to accept brush and we provide dumpster service to homeowners and landscapers.

Amending the Soil for the New Plants

Successful planting depends heavily on the quality of the soil. This is where all your new plants will take in nutrients to grow strong and healthy. It is worthwhile to have a soil test done at a local agricultural station. It’s usually a free service and it will give you accurate information as to what you will need to add to the soil.

To make your new planting beds, you will have to incorporate some type of organic material. The two most common types of organic material are loam and peat moss. Loam is comprised of sand, silt and clay. It’s ideal for most garden plants because it holds moisture but also drains well so that sufficient air can reach the roots. Peat moss or compost can be used to increase water and nutrient holding capabilities.

Depending on how much material you will need, the items described above can be purchased in bulk or by the bag. Soundview stocks bulk loam and compost and can deliver Monday through Saturday as long as enough notice is given. Peat moss is also available at Soundview in 3 different size bags for your convenience.

Now that the hard part is over, you can sit back and enjoy your new landscape…well, almost!
Yes, the labor intensive part is over, but now you have to water, weed and fertilize. Think of it like having a child.  Once your child is born, you must feed and nurture your baby so he or she thrives. Thankfully, plants require much less maintenance. Many customers ask me what type of plants require no maintenance – and the answer is, or course, there are none. However, there are some plants that need less attention than others. After all, even a stone patio requires some TLC every once in awhile.

Lawn Maintenance:

WATER: If your grass germinates poorly and you haven’t watered, you have nobody to blame but yourself. Watering your yard will be a commitment and you shouldn’t skimp on this step. It important to keep it moist at all times while it is germinating which can take anywhere from about 5 days to 20 days – depending on the kind of grass seed mixture you plant and the weather conditions. And because grass seed will not sprout all at once, you will have to continue watering this way for quite some time. Once your yard is densely green, you can cut back on the watering to once per day. When you have mowed it a few times, the grass will be established well enough to continue with a normal watering routine.The best time to water is in the early morning hours and again mid way through the day. It’s hard to say how long this will take because there are many variables – such as how much it has rained or how hot it is outside. But plan on watering for about 10 minutes, two times a day to ensure that the top inch of soil stays consistently moist. Keep in mind that you want to water evenly and avoid puddling.

FERTILIZER: It is important to keep your lawn healthy. Watering is a big part of this, but there are also other things that you can do to ensure a “happy” lawn. We recommend following a standard fertilizer regimen. A plan tailored to meet your needs from your local garden center or landscape supply is an excellent place to start. The plans are usually inexpensive and pretty simple to follow. See our articles on “Lawn Care” for more information.

YEARLY: Every once in awhile you can have your soil tested at the local agricultural station. They will let you know what to add to your lawn to help it grow. It is also a good idea to aerate and overseed at the end of the summer. Aeration has many benefits including improved air exchange, better water uptake and reduces soil compaction. Overseeding helps to keep the lawn thick which will also improve weed and disease resistance.

Plant Maintenance:

WATER: It is very important to water – especially right after the plants have been installed. The key is to water the plantings deeply. Many only water the surface of the soil which causes the plant roots to grow near the surface and dry out quickly. A new planting should be watered 2 to 3 days a week for the first month and 1 to 2 days for the next two months. Each plant should be watered for 5 mins on a slow trickle. Bed misters in an irrigation system are quite handy for this situation, but soaker hoses will get the job done as well and will also save time. You can check to make sure the plants are getting the proper amount of water by probing the soil about 4 to 6 inches down the day between watering. If it is dry – you are not watering enough. If it is wet, then you are watering too much.

FERTILIZER: Your plants will also benefit from a fertilizer application. Add fertilizer when you are planting – we like to use “Dry Roots” which gives the plants a low, balanced feeding. When the plants are established, a yearly feeding in Spring should be fine. Be sure to use the correct fertilizers for your plants and read the instructions. Over fertilizing will only damage the plant.

PRUNING: Most shrubs will need to be pruned and trimmed every once in awhile. Pruning will keep the shrubs healthy by removing dead or undesirable growth, promote flowering and rejuvenate a dull looking plant. Research the best time for you to prune your shrubs.

WEEDING: Weeding is an awful chore but it is necessary. Besides being aesthetically unpleasing, if weeds become overgrown they will rob your plants of vital nutrients and water. You can reduce the amount of weeding by using a barrier such as filter fabric or a chemical like “Preen”. Mulch will also help to keep the weeds down.

Hardscape Maintenance:

Although pavers and retaining wall blocks will not need nearly as much care as a new lawn or planting, they still require some attention. Pavers and walls can become moldy and dirty over time. The rate at which this will happen differs depending on foot traffic, light and moisture exposure. A great way to refresh a dull patio or wall is to power wash – make sure the water isn’t too strong, it can actually damage the stone.  (Tip: never power wash “wet cast” pavers). You can go a little further and refill the joints with polymeric sand and then seal it. These extra steps will enhance the color and beauty of your patio and wall.